A Chinese (not-so-communist) party
It's late July in Beijing, and I'm standing in Tiananmen Square, sweating buckets in the kind of humidity that makes you wonder if you've accidentally wandered into a sauna.
But I'm not alone. In fact, I could not feel lonely at all, since I am right at the beating heart of the People's Republic of China, where the founding occurred in 1949 – and forever changed history.
In fact, despite being in the middle of the largest square in the world, I feel at home. For many Westerners, that square has long been synonymous with terms such as totalitarianism, massacre, and repression due to the events of 1989 and other policies deemed Draconian. And while the Communist rulers' human rights record is contentious and problematic even for China's greatest admirers, it would be wrong to view China only through its immediate past.
Rather, it should be judged in view of its thousands of years of upheavals – and the enormous strides it has made as a present-day stable, great power that is, wrongly or rightfully, the lynchpin of Asia.
As an Israeli going to China, you will feel at home from the moment you step on the plane. Both nations see themselves as family-oriented, patriotic, and above all, unique. Not in a condescending way, but in a way that reflects their special journey and traditions going back thousands of years, from destruction to rebirth, as nations that managed to rise from the horrors inflicted upon them during World War II, then had to fight for independence and acceptance from their surroundings despite being an outcast at first, until finally earning the world's respect and living in prosperity.
Complex history aside, for the throngs of average Chinese who had descended on the square like me on that hot, humid gathering in the capital – just off the Forbidden City, where Chairman Mao's giant portrait is so prominently displayed – the place almost felt like one big party.
Thousands of Chinese – mainly families with children – are streaming in, ignoring the fact that it is humid and crowded. They could not be happier. The star of the show? The daily flag-lowering ceremony. It may take just a minute or so, but the anticipation is building up, and people are lining up hours in advance. Kids are bouncing on their parents' shoulders like they've just been told they're going to Disneyland, except the Mickey Mouse here is a giant red flag.
The excitement is so palpable you could cut it with a chopstick. I half expected someone to break out into a spontaneous rendition of "I'm So Excited" – but in Mandarin, of course. It was like watching a nation's rebirth, one ecstatic kid at a time. Who needs fireworks when you've got this much enthusiasm? This scene repeats itself twice daily: at dawn, for the raising of the flag; and at dusk, for its lowering.
It may seem simple and unimportant for Westerners, but this tradition, which includes a military band that folds the flag and walks it into the Forbidden City (after lowering) and the singing of the anthem in the morning (after raising) encapsulates what the Chinese people think about themselves as a nation: A proud sense of belonging, where family, clan and ethnicity are at the center. Communism may be the proclaimed mechanism of government, but for China and its people, the term is about identity, not economics.
Video: Tiananmen Square during the flag ceremony
It's no surprise, then, that as an Israeli going to China, you will feel at home from the moment you step on the plane. Both nations see themselves as family-oriented, patriotic, and, above all, unique. Not in a condescending way, but in a way that reflects their special journey and traditions going back thousands of years, from destruction to rebirth, as nations that managed to rise from the horrors inflicted upon them during World War II, then had to fight for independence and acceptance from their surroundings despite being an outcast at first, until finally earning the world's respect and living in prosperity. Even the bad things associated with both countries make their history rhyme: one has the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, the other has the Cross-Strait Tensions over the island of Taiwan; they both had a surprise emergence as nuclear powers in the 1950s (and in Israel's case it's not even official), and their regional economic powerhouse status has propelled them to become the epitome of what some would call Start-Up Nations and innovation superpowers, albeit each with a different scale and approach.
Video: The flag at Tiananmen Square being lowered
Thus, even as tensions persist in the Middle East, I found myself part of an Israeli delegation of journalists and scholars traversing China's megacities and noticing just how much in common both have. Our journey from Shenzhen to Shanghai and finally to Beijing offered unique insights into China's rapid development and the evolving Sino-Israeli relationship, primarily through conversations with our hosts and local guides.
It may seem simple and unimportant for Westerners, but this tradition, which includes a military band that folds the flag and walks it into the forbidden city (after lowering) and the singing of the anthem in the morning (after raising) encapsulates what the Chinese people think about themselves as a nation: A proud sense of belonging, where family, clan and ethnicity are at the center. Communism may be the proclaimed mechanism of government, but for China and its people, the term is about identity, not economics.
But above all, it showed us and me personally that China is more than just a big country rich with history and culture; it is a world of its own – which means it has to be judged accordingly, not through Western or Eastern lenses, but through its people. And as a side note, despite my well-intentioned efforts, my skills at using chopsticks remain beginners-level at best.
Shenzhen: A tiny fishing village that became a colossus
Although I was a bit disappointed I didn't get a chance to see the actual assembly lines of the thousands upon thousands of workshops and factories dominating this 22 million city metropolis, it was clear that this city is the innovation capital of the republic.
Video: Youth in Shenzhen recording a music video
China's rise as an exporter of gizmos and electronics was made possible by the meteoric rise of this city from about fewer than 100,000 people in the 1970s. Now, it has become China's third largest city with over 20 million residents in its overall area, in no small part thanks to the government's decision in the 1980s to make it a special economic zone (SEZ) that would not be subject to the strict centralized economic policies of the Chinese Communist Party.
But it's not just the skyscrapers. It's also the fact that the Chinese authorities have unleashed the entrepreneurial spirit in this innovation hub, making it a magnet for companies and ultimately doing the unthinkable: beating neighboring Hong Kong in its economic contribution to the Chinese economy (although there are many reasons that contributed to Hong Kong's downfall from 18% of the Chinese GDP to just 2%).
Any manufacturer who wants to create a prototype for a product in Shenzhen can do so at break-neck speed, and even more importantly, it can get a new prototype just as fast if the first one didn't work. In other cities, this process can take months to complete. I experienced this Chinese express service on a much smaller scale, when I bought glasses (in a mall in Beijing). After taking my measurements and figuring out my prescriptions, they got to work: I hadn't even returned to my hotel room when the delivery person arrived with the brand-new pair in hand (he had to leave them at the front desk until I arrived).
Our visit to the Shenzhen Smart City Technology Development Group Co., Ltd. (SSTDG) revealed a city at the forefront of not just smart technology but also the electric vehicle (EV) revolution. The scale of digitization and the push towards EVs in Shenzhen is nothing short of remarkable.
The scale of this transition is impressive. While exact figures weren't provided, it was clear that Shenzhen is rapidly electrifying its vehicle fleet. From taxis to buses, the city is pushing for widespread EV adoption. The push isn't without its challenges. The increase in private vehicle ownership has led to growing traffic congestion, especially post-COVID.
Our host noted, "After the COVID pandemic, people started to switch from public transportation to the private sector. More people would like to drive their own car."
The concept of their creation of a twin digital city to help run the physical one was just jaw-dropping, although, as in the case of any presentation, we can't assume all their actions are flawless or that their figures are not embellished. Having said that, their claims that they have mimicked some 3000 traffic signals and 10,000 km of road mapping is astounding.
The information that is fed includes drone activity, pedestrian and traffic movement, and helps improve efficiency without building new roads. A hive-mind city that runs the actual city.
Shenzhen's smart city initiative is almost totally dependent on this concept of a 'digital twin' – a virtual replica of the entire city. This isn't just a fancy 3D model; it's a dynamic, data-driven representation that allows city planners to optimize everything from traffic flow to emergency response. The digital twin includes high-resolution models of over 200,000 buildings, providing unprecedented insight into the city's operations. This platform includes high-resolution 3D models and real-time traffic data, as well as information on approximately 13 million housing units. For Westerners, this may sound like a Big Brother dominance that controls your life. For the average Chinese, this means safety and assurances that the city is properly functioning, the hosts explain.
In one case, they used their simulations to solve a traffic problem in one of the districts. Instead of spending a ton of money on a big road expansion project, they ran the simulations, tweaked the traffic light timing, made a few other adjustments, and it actually worked. They solved the congestion problem without any major construction.
The question of how to phase in robotaxis has been focused on a gradual approach, with only a handful being operated in the city and during specific hours. To encourage adoption and familiarize the public with this new technology, Shenzhen has taken an innovative approach: offering robotaxi rides for free. Shenzhen has set aggressive targets for the transition to autonomous and electric vehicles: By 2030, they envision a fully integrated system encompassing autonomous vehicles, drones, and other smart city technologies. Drivers will get jobs in the EV industry to compensate for their redundancy. While encouraging EV adoption, they're simultaneously expanding public transportation options.
Interestingly, when asked about fatalities related to autonomous vehicles, our hosts were evasive. While they didn't provide specific numbers, they acknowledged that there had been some incidents. However, they emphasized that these were not necessarily due to the autonomous technology itself but often resulted from interactions with human-driven vehicles or pedestrians. The insurance issues are the main concerns.
But perhaps the most futuristic aspect of Shenzhen's plans involves the sky. The city is actively developing and testing passenger drones, envisioning a future where a significant portion of urban traffic could be airborne by 2035. They are also already experimenting with UAV for deliveries and have had cooperation with Israel's Halo.
As we concluded our visit, the scale of Shenzhen's ambitions was clear. The city is not just embracing smart technology and EVs – it's reshaping its entire urban fabric around these innovations. While the technological capabilities on display were impressive, they also raised important questions about privacy, data security, and the societal implications of such rapid and pervasive change.
BYD: China's Henry Ford
Our journey through China's technological landscape took an exciting turn with a visit to a BYD (Build Your Dreams) facility, one of China's leading electric vehicle manufacturers, which used to be just a small battery company.
Although it's not the actual place where the chassis is assembled and the electronics are installed, it is only a visitor's center, and it still offers a fascinating glimpse into the future of transportation and China's ambitions in the global EV market. What's remarkable is that this company was once just a battery producer and now it has become the envy of the affordable EV market, and at one point got a big investment from none other than Warren Buffet. If there is one thing that showcases China's transition from communism to capitalism, it is this. Practically every driver I had when I ordered a taxi was using BYD; they are everywhere.
Perhaps most intriguing was BYD's foray into autonomous vehicles. We were shown a driverless shuttle, which our guide described as having "open touch management assistance." She elaborated, "It can wake up itself and get into operation by itself. And when the power is under 30%, it can be returned to the warehouse and recharged." In one exhibit, they showed us how the battery could withstand direct fire without exploding.
As we concluded our visit, the scale of BYD's ambitions was clear. The company isn't just producing vehicles; it's reimagining the entire concept of personal and public transportation. From advanced suspension systems to autonomous shuttles, BYD is positioning itself at the forefront of the EV revolution.
It's no wonder that it is the most popular electric vehicle in Israel, although, in recent days, there have been reports that it might be extra vulnerable to thieves: Its operating system is basically an app, and once hackers control it, they can control the car.
Video: China's BYD, originally a battery company, prides itself in fire-resistant batteries for cars
But just like cars replaced horses, EVs will ultimately do that to the internal combustion engine. China may not have invented this, but it has already revolutionized the concept and, above all, made it accessible to the masses. Build Your Dreams is, in a way, also where China's soft power rubber meets the road. If it succeeds in making BYD rival Tesla in the long run, it will have won just because it's there.
A Jewish heart: How a Chinese cardiologist became an expert on Jewish history
In Shanghai, our hosts were keen to highlight the city's Jewish history, particularly its role as a safe haven for refugees during World War II. We visited the former Ohel Moshe Synagogue, now a museum, where our guide, a former cardiologist turned historian, shared the poignant history of Jewish refugees in Shanghai. "From 1938 to 1941, about 20,000 European Jews came to Shanghai, in which more than 14,000 fortunately, they survived the darkest years together with their names in Hong Kong."
However, it is worth noting that there was a pre-existing Jewish community in Shanghai that played a crucial role in aiding the newly arrived refugees, as the city and China as a whole have always been a place where Jews could easily settle.
During the war, organizations like the Shanghai Jewish Relief Organization provided vital assistance with housing, employment, and education. The success of Jewish businessmen like Victor Sassoon and the Kadoorie family enabled the community to mobilize resources for the refugees.
The guide's personal journey to becoming a historian of this period was equally fascinating. "I used to be a cardiologist but I'm interested in history, so I quit my job in the hospital, and I came here to the museum."
The museum retells the story of the Jewish plight through the eyes of the Chinese, who were also subject to brutal occupation by the Japanese (even before World War II started in Europe). The museum feels different than Yad Vashem or Holocaust memorials that look back at how Jewish life was destroyed. When you tour the exhibits in the photos, it feels like a walk down memory lane, showing how the bond between the Chinese and Jewish people cemented into a full-fledged brotherhood. It is a celebration of the mutual ability to defy the odds.
The story of Jin Wenzen, who held on to a bag left behind by a Jewish family in the 1940s while taking refuge in Shanghai, captures the warm hospitality of the Chinese community to the Jews fleeing Europe's persecutions. There is also an exhibit of a Chinese resident of Shanghai, Lin, who faithfully safeguarded a collection of books that a Jewish refugee left behind when he returned to Germany after the war. The Chinese neighbor kept his promise and safeguarded the books. After 70 years, when it turned out that the refugee had passed away in Germany, the books were donated to the Jewish museum.
There is also the story of W. Michael Blumenthal, whose family survived in the Shanghai Ghetto under Japanese occupation for 8 years. He ended up becoming the US secretary of the treasury.
Candid conversations
Our visit to the Shanghai Institute for International Studies provided a unique opportunity for frank and sometimes tense discussions about the current state of China-Israel relations. The conversation, which at times became heated, revealed the complexities and sensitivities that underpin this important bilateral relationship.
One of the most pressing topics was China's response to the October 7 attacks on Israel. Our hosts, including a specialist on Middle East affairs, acknowledged that China's stance had been a source of disappointment for many Israelis. "Our relations have been affected," he admitted, "but I think on China's side, we are still committed to our friendship and business relations with Israel."
However, the Chinese perspective on the conflict differed significantly from ours, saying the attack did not change the underlying problem of the conflict, and that is Israel's occupation of areas that prevented a two-state solution. They disagreed with us that China's statements have changed in the months following Oct. 7 and become more anti-Israel.
The discussion became particularly intense when addressing China's statements at international forums. One of our participants pointed out a statement made by China's representative at the International Court of Justice that seemed to legitimize Palestinian violence. This led to a heated exchange about the nuances of China's position and how it's perceived in Israel, with the Chinese side insisting that China views resistance to Israeli occupation only in specific cases of occupation and did not condone the October 7 atrocities.
Video: China's economic transformation into a capitalist market-economy over the past 50 years has reshaped Asia
They emphasized that China's aim was to play a balanced role, maintaining relationships with both Israelis and Palestinians. However, they acknowledged that this approach might not always satisfy either side fully. "We cannot do everything that is required by the Israelis, just as we cannot do everything that is required by the Palestinians," one Chinese scholar explained.
The discussion became particularly intense when addressing China's statements at international forums. One of our participants pointed out a statement made by China's representative at the International Court of Justice that seemed to legitimize Palestinian violence. This led to a heated exchange about the nuances of China's position and how it's perceived in Israel, with the Chinese side insisting that China views resistance to Israeli occupation only in specific cases of occupation and did not condone the October 7 atrocities.
The conversation also touched on the broader geopolitical context, including China's relationships with other Middle Eastern countries and its efforts to mediate regional conflicts. Our hosts highlighted China's role in facilitating dialogue between Saudi Arabia and Iran, suggesting that China could play a similar mediating role in the Israeli-Palestinian conflict.
Despite the tensions, there were moments of mutual understanding. Both sides recognized the importance of the China-Israel relationship, particularly in areas of technology and innovation. Our hosts expressed a desire to move past current disagreements and focus on areas of cooperation.
One Chinese scholar, speaking candidly, said, "I understand the disappointment because we didn't do as much as you need, or because you were in a very terrible time and you certainly expect help or at least moral support from your best friend."
As the meeting concluded, it was clear that while significant differences remain, there is also a strong desire on both sides to maintain and strengthen the China-Israel relationship. The frankness of the conversation, while sometimes uncomfortable, was ultimately productive in laying bare the issues that need to be addressed. Regardless, we felt their hospitality, like all of our Chinese hosts, was to the maximum extent (with tea, of course!), and we gladly invited them to a similar forum in Israel.
Shenzhen's Metro: Imagining all Israelis traveling at once
Our visit to the Shenzhen Metro provided a striking example of China's rapid infrastructure development and its ambitions in urban transit. In fact, you could not escape the feeling that this was very similar to the recently inaugurated Red Line in Tel Aviv, which makes sense – it was built by Chinese companies.
The scale, efficiency, and innovative design of the system left a lasting impression on our delegation.
The statistics alone are staggering. In just 20 years, Shenzhen has built a metro system with 17 lines covering 567.1 kilometers. Our hosts proudly shared that the network has achieved a 97% coverage rate within a one-kilometer radius, making the metro accessible to the vast majority of Shenzhen's residents.
The system's capacity is equally astounding. In the first half of 2024 alone, the Shenzhen Metro carried 1.463 billion passengers, accounting for 73.5% of the city's total public transportation volume. On average, more than 8 million people use the metro daily. To put this in perspective, our guide highlighted a recent record: "On July 12 this year, we broke the record once again with 10,308,000 people. That means on July 12, the Shenzhen Metro carried passengers more than the total population of Israel."
What sets Shenzhen Metro apart is not just its scale but its innovative approach to design and technology. Our tour of the Gangxia North, described as one of the most representative in the system, showcased this perfectly. The station features a massive glass-covered atrium called the "Isle of Shenzhen," which serves multiple purposes beyond its striking visual appeal.
This glass passageway, touted as the first and longest of its kind in the world, is an engineering marvel. It allows natural light to flood the underground space, creating a more pleasant environment for passengers while reducing the need for artificial lighting. The glass also acts as a sound barrier, minimizing noise from the trains. This single design element addresses multiple needs: sustainability, aesthetics, and passenger comfort.
The focus on passenger experience extends to the integration of commercial areas within and around the stations. As our guide explained, these are not just a few shops but entire commercial hubs connected to the metro. This approach transforms stations from mere transit points to destinations in themselves, blurring the lines between transportation hub and urban center.
Perhaps the most futuristic aspect of our visit was learning about Line 14, which operates without human drivers. This autonomous system places the Shenzhen Metro at the forefront of transit technology globally, showcasing its commitment to innovation.
The Shenzhen Metro's reach extends beyond China's borders. Apart from the Tel Aviv Red Line light rail, which was inaugurated last year, they also have projects in Ethiopia, Egypt, and Vietnam, demonstrating China's growing influence in global infrastructure development.
Shanghai: The world's busiest port
Our visit to the Shanghai International Port Group (SIPG) – not the actual port but their visitor's center – offered a fascinating glimpse into the beating heart of global trade. As we toured their state-of-the-art facilities and engaged with their representatives, the sheer scale and complexity of their operations became apparent.
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One of the most impressive aspects was the sheer volume of containers SIPG handles. "This year, 2024, our container throughput will exceed 50 million," our guide stated confidently. To put this into perspective, that's more containers than many countries handle in a year, all passing through a single port.
When asked about future growth, SIPG's ambitions were clear, detailing plans for expansion that could see their container throughput reach over 60 million by 2029.
The port's history is deeply intertwined with Shanghai's own. From humble beginnings as a trading post on the Yangtze River, Shanghai's strategic location at the confluence of the Yangtze and the East China Sea positioned it perfectly to become a global shipping hub. However, it was China's economic reforms in 1978 that truly catapulted the port onto the world stage, opening up new possibilities for international trade.
Today, the Port of Shanghai is a marvel of modern technology and efficiency. Our guide showcased the port's impressive level of automation, with automated guided vehicles (AGVs) and remote-controlled cranes operating with pinpoint accuracy, all orchestrated by a central software system. This technological prowess allows the port to operate 24/7, handling enormous cargo volumes with minimal errors and at lower costs, giving Shanghai a significant competitive edge in global shipping.
Perhaps most intriguing for our delegation was learning about SIPG's operations in Israel. The company has invested in their terminal in Haifa, bringing their expertise to our shores. When asked about lessons learned from working with Israeli employment culture, our guide candidly admitted, "I cannot answer these questions because I don't have the chance to talk with them."
SIPG sends its own management to oversee the operations in Haifa. Israeli law requires trucks to be driven by humans. This is in contrast to the Shanghai port, which uses automated guided vehicles (AGVs). After the Oct. 7 war broke out, some of SIPG's top management in Haifa requested to leave and return to China due to safety concerns. They later returned to Haifa, unlike many foreign companies that decided to cease operations during wartime.
A listening tour
Our final day in Beijing brought us to a prestigious think tank, where we engaged in a frank and wide-ranging discussion with Chinese scholars specializing in Middle East affairs. This meeting provided valuable insights into China's perspective on the region and its approach to Sino-Israeli relations, going beyond typical headlines to reveal the nuances and complexities of this relationship.
The session began with a comprehensive overview of China's global outlook by the think tank's vice president. He emphasized China's commitment to peaceful development and the concept of a "shared future for humankind," stating, "We are not striving for our own national rejuvenation. We are working for a peaceful, clean, beautiful world with lasting peace and a common perspective. It's not a slogan; it's what we are working on."
This focus on peace and stability was a recurring theme throughout the discussion. However, it stood in stark contrast to the sense of disappointment and frustration expressed by our Israeli delegation, particularly regarding China's reaction to the recent conflict. This tension underscored the challenges in navigating cultural differences and historical sensitivities between our two nations.
Despite these differences, there was a palpable effort from both sides to find common ground. Our delegation expressed admiration for China's infrastructure development, particularly the light rail system in Tel Aviv and the Metro in Shenzhen.
The vice president of the think tank, shared an anecdote about his mother's visit to Israel perfectly illustrated this point. As he shared, "One of my story that when I was in Israel, my mom came to Israel, and to be honest, in the past, she didn't have a very positive view of Israel. But when she came to Israel, she totally changed her mind, and I think that is a very vivid example that tells us what the meaning of the tribal and communication with the people between the two countries."
The role of younger generations and social media in shaping the narrative of Sino-Israeli relations emerged as a significant topic. Both sides recognized the importance of these new channels of communication in fostering understanding and challenging preconceptions.
One of the most striking moments came when our delegation raised the issue of antisemitism, only to be met with a degree of bewilderment from the Chinese scholars. As one of them stated, "I think most Chinese reactions are directly related to the war, no, not antisemitism."
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The discussion on Iran revealed China's desire for a more nuanced approach to regional dynamics. The scholars advocated for engagement and dialogue, even with parties that Israel might view as adversarial. As one scholar noted, "I think if you want a long peace in this region, you cannot ignore Iran. We cannot ignore Hamas in this region."
Video: Shenzhen's metro is also one big food court
As our delegation prepared to depart, the vice president left us with a memorable statement: "When you feel alone, just believe that China is always ready to cooperate with you. There's no antisemitism in China." He even quotes a famous saying by Shimon Peres who said that when Israel and China cooperate, they have 1.5 billion people working together.
As one of our delegation members summed up, "I think Israel needs a nuanced position of China. I think we need to understand that and recognize that they think the Chinese side needs to recognize as well that Israelis are, in my opinion, rightfully disappointed by the Chinese reaction to October 7, and I think it is important for you to understand why people are disappointed. But at the same time, I don't think any cooperation with China is bad, nor any technological cooperation with China is bad, and I think we need a nuanced position in the political and in economic sectors to understand what is good and what is better."
Epilogue
Our journey was 10 days, but each day was so intense it could have well been its own article. As the famous Chinese phrase says, even a 1,000-mile journey begins with the first step. This dispatch, however incomplete and subjective, does not aim to give China a pass on its problems. Rather, it seeks to give you a window to the soul of a mega-power and a nation that has a magical bond with Israel, even at times of war and despite the rocky start to the relationship.
Above all, what's so heartwarming is just how much attention and respect is afforded by the Chinese – both people and officials – to the tiny nation called Israel.
For some Chinese I met, the mere fact that I was allowed out of the country as Israel fights seemed odd and drew suspicions. This is, my guess, a reflection of the cultural difference, not a testament to their views of my character or Israel as a whole. The subtext was that once the war is officially over, even if the fighting continues, China will be much more engaging with Israel and Israelis (on a side note, when you walk down the street, many random Chinese come up to you and ask for a picture with you, not because you are Israeli of course, but because you are different).
Video: Residents of Shanghai play in the early morning, with Tai Chi being among other sports
Just like the many Chinese who engage in Tai Chi early in the morning on the streets, one cannot force your way into someone's heart and soul. You have to accept the rhythm of nature. Even gentle push can backfire immensely if you don't listen. And if there's one thing all Israelis have to learn from China is the ability to listen, even to your fiercest competitors in the region. They say that still waters run deep, and it is clear that whatever you think of China, they know how to talk to you with respect even when they disagree with you (in fact, as our guide told us, in Chinese culture, if you are condescending, you will have already lost any respect).
Video: Shanghai residents start off their day with Tai Chi
Although the war in Israel since Oct. 7, 2023, has tested relations and, at times, even caused mutual acrimony as China sought to elevate its role as a mediator to offset the US and has even criticized Israel. But for China, the war has not been a strategic shift. As think tank scholars we met explained, they still see Israel's future in the region as a prosperous powerhouse that will ultimately be part of its modern Silk Road and want to achieve that through a two-state solution.
They insist that China's role in trying to bring about a ceasefire and even hosting Hamas in Beijing for an intra-Palestinian reconciliation summit (during our visit no less!) was not directed against Israel but is meant to serve its over-arching vision of securing peace in the region – a vision it never abandoned.
In fact, China, throughout the war, has consistently been operating in Israel by continuing its many infrastructure projects and running the Haifa port. Its Hainan Airlines has been the only foreign carrier that has not halted flights to Israel at any point (in fact, it is now the only airline connecting the two countries after El Al ended its China flights since the war started). All this shows just how important Israel-China relations are to the rulers of the republic. But above all, it shows that China knows how to let foreign policy and business relations thrive even when they are at odds, and how to keep personal relations despite governmental squabbles. It is adept at navigating between the Middle East intricacies – especially since it views this part of the world as crucial for its continued growth (import of oil and the shipping routes, for example).
Every summer, China holds its Gaokao, a simultaneous test that all seniors in high school take together after years of preparation. It's perhaps the single most important moment in any Chinese person's life, determining their career in one stroke of a pen, with a major emphasis on rote memory and intense study sessions without your phone.
To borrow this metaphorically, Israel-China relations have passed these tests with flying colors, as demonstrated by the great ability to bond as nations and people without letting geopolitics stand in the way. Israel's major role in the Belt and Road Initiative, as a safe harbor for Chinese vessels and a means of connecting Europe to the modern-day Silk Road, puts Jerusalem and Beijing on a trajectory of economic cooperation, along with the growing trade and tourism and mutual admiration of those two kindred spirits.
However, what is equally clear is that both nations are growing close on a visceral level. It is now up to all players to make it into a lasting reality.
Full disclosure: The writer was part of a delegation from Israel comprising journalists and scholars who were invited by the Chinese Embassy in Israel and the Chinese People's Association for Friendship with Foreign Countries. All expenses and travel arrangements were paid for by the Chinese hosts, who had no input on the content of this article.
