Humans have a short memory and that is the reason that the Tel Aviv-Dubai line has become a matter of routine. This is a place that until three years ago – when the diplomatic agreement with the United Arab Emirates was signed – we could not visit, and certainly not fly over Saudi Arabia on the way there. Today, flying to Dubai feels, for a few moments, like a king who has reached his kingdom.
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While sitting on the plane, between the heavens and the earth, on my way to Dubai, my eyes shifted between the plane window, through which I could see the desert soil, and the map on the plane screen, with names of cities and countries that are not accessible to Israelis, but which feel within touching distance: Shiraz or Kuwait, for example.
You can fly with Flydubai to the United Arab Emirates. The flight attendants are courteous, the company is punctual, and everything is very neat and clean – this is a recurring theme that characterizes Dubai throughout the trip. Even the public toilets located around the country are a model of cleanliness, and as soon as you leave the toilet, a cleaner comes and polishes the cubicle. You won't catch dysentery there.
Another recurring theme is wealth and innovation. You can already feel these at the airport, where you are greeted with shining marble floors and intimidating silver pillars, but the skyscrapers dotted around the city also seem to have been taken from New York, alongside innovative and first-of-a-kind museums.
The Emiratis have a high sense of customer service and think of everything. The airport has places to rent a "travel" stroller for a child who gets tired from the long walk around the enormous airport. In restaurants, the waiter refills your glass as soon as you start drinking from it, and everyone in the hotel smiles at you politely and wishes you "good morning" when you leave the room.
Good restaurants – and they are kosher
Good news for the Israeli public, many of whom keep kosher: throughout your stay in Dubai, you will find many options for delicious, varied, upscale – and kosher – food. My favorite restaurant in Dubai is Elli's Café – a gem of beauty and taste, with green plants hanging loosely from the wooden fences outside; a colorful wooden board that shows what is being served today, a stand to browse posters, as well as showcases with tempting pastries. The design is happy and chic, and so is the food.
We arrive there in the morning and within a flash, our table is filled with salads and fruit, omelets, pastries, croissants, Belgian waffles with strawberries, berries, and powdered sugar. Beyond the kosher food, the restaurant has taken the religious diner into consideration. You can find a "natla" (cup for ritual washing of the hands) and benchers, and even Koren "Tanachs," in a light green color that blends with the general design of the restaurant.
We enjoyed another wonderful meal at "The Kosher Place", which also featured a unique design, a sort of modern Arab décor, with a wooden floor and white, rounded windows with decorations. The meat was tender, and the seasoning had a "kick" as the flavor slowly opened in your mouth. As in all places, here too we were welcomed with open arms. The restaurant's chef is Shimon Ben Shetrit, an Israeli who arrived during the Covid pandemic, at a time when many restaurants around the world suffered financially.
"I worked in the culinary field in Germany for four years," he says. "At Chabad, they knew me and my food and realized that I understood the different kashrut requirements. When Dubai opened up, they contacted me. I didn't think twice and came to check the area. The culinary situation was lousy, and my adrenaline started to flow. I didn't sleep at night. I took charge of the catering, comprised a menu for deliveries, handpicked my staff, and scoured the city for a place for the restaurant."
Ben Shetrit has been on the Tel Aviv-Dubai line ever since. "We live on this line. My wife is in Israel, and every six weeks I go to Israel for a few days. During the [Jewish] holidays the whole family comes here. Over Passover, they were here for almost a month. My next dream is to open a hamburger joint and a dairy restaurant here."
While visiting the Armani Kaf kosher restaurant, located in Burj Khalifa, the tallest tower in the world, we met Rabbi Levi Duchman, the rabbi of the United Arab Emirates. "The Jewish community in Dubai has existed for ten years and there are Jews from all over the world, including Israel, living here," the rabbi, who within two years established the kashrut system in the region, says. "Hospitality is very important to the local residents," he adds, explaining that the kosher restaurants were established on their own initiative, "out of a desire for every Jew to have somewhere to eat."
The food at the Kaf is very luxurious – and is served in abundance. The place boasts quality meat, but what really caught our attention were actually the bread, which felt like a cloud in our mouth, and were served alongside a plethora of spreads and salads. The restaurant overlooks beautiful fountains, and every half hour there is a colorful and impressive fountain show, set to a classical French song.
Other kosher restaurants that should not be missed include Habibi Kosher Café, breakfast at the Hilton Garden Inn Hotel and at the V Hotel, located inside the Hilton Al Habtoor, as well as Rimon, a kosher supermarket where you can find any food your heart desires, and even order Shabbat catering there.
A super-sensory experience
Dubai has many attractions and the most desired of them all is the view from the roofs of the high towers of Dubai. It is recommended to go up to the Burj Khalifa and view the palm island (View at The Palm) – the view is breathtaking.
Another particularly unique attraction is a visit to the Aya complex – a huge area (3,700 square meters) divided into corners and rooms, each one activating the senses and telling visitors a different story. There is a room with mirrors where you can dance, a room where you can watch the stars, another room enabling a visit under the sea, and in another room, you can just lie on sofas next to colorful displays and listen to soothing music. Here you can wander between the rooms and meet yourself.
One of the most prominent sites in the city
The Museum of the Future is one of the most prominent sites in the city. The museum is located in a very unique and attractive building, due to its silver elliptical shape, with windows in the form of ornate Arabic script. A poem, about the future of humanity and the Emirates, is displayed on top of the building in a beautiful cursive script that is prominent both day and night.
A visit to the museum simulates a flight into space and displays how the world will look in a few decades; how we can easily reach space and take materials from it that will help all of humanity on Earth.
Let's go shopping
One of the issues that stresses Israelis most before traveling to Dubai are the high prices there, but it must be noted that in most places they are not much higher than in Israel, and you can also find bargains there.
For example, at the 1 to 10 Dirham Shops we found many deals – from clothing to jewelry, makeup, food, toys, and household items. I called it the "Max Stock of Dubai," because it carries the same concept. The store is close to the Dubai Frame – a huge golden frame from which you can see the entire city, also allowing visitors to take beautiful photos at the site. It is also worth visiting The Dubai Mall, one of the largest malls in the world, home to 1,200 stores.
Dreamy amenities
Regarding accommodation, Dubai has many hotels to offer to its guests. I stayed at the prestigious W Hotel Dubai, which includes beautiful and spacious rooms overlooking a magical view. The hotel is proud of its unique design elements and dreamy comfort facilities. It has a spa, a bar, and two Michelin-level Italian and Korean-Japanese (not kosher) restaurants. You walk around the hotel, the restaurants, and the various attractions and feel the wealth, wealth, and more wealth.
The author was a guest of Dubai's tourism board.
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